Aren't the ailerons supposed to lie flat?
- Thread starter NC74392
- Start date
Merritt Marquiss
New member
Dave,
Just got back from flying my jet (74398) and my aielerons lie flush with the wings. I think you are probably right on your assesment of what happened to yours.....get that fixed bud, that ads up to MPH
By the way, what's the S/N on your bird, i'm 1411.
Have a good one, and my best goes out to you and your father.
Merritt Marquiss
Just got back from flying my jet (74398) and my aielerons lie flush with the wings. I think you are probably right on your assesment of what happened to yours.....get that fixed bud, that ads up to MPH
By the way, what's the S/N on your bird, i'm 1411.Have a good one, and my best goes out to you and your father.
Merritt Marquiss
NC74392
New member
I bought this from Bud Grave in Summerville, TN (super nice couple). It was painted Howard Johnson colors and the fabric was 24 years old in 1995.
Boy, it's taking me alot longer to restore NC74392 than previously thought. Most of the time is spent saving up for the next step. I just don't want to owe anything on my plane when I finish it.
DD
Boy, it's taking me alot longer to restore NC74392 than previously thought. Most of the time is spent saving up for the next step. I just don't want to owe anything on my plane when I finish it.
DD
Well, according to the (original) Bellanca Cruisair Senior handbook of instructions that I have (models 14-13 14-13-2), they list the aileron deflection as 22 degrees up and down from neutral..... but then they state, "the neutral position of the aileron with respect to the wing trailing edge is up 1/2 inch at the inboard rib." This is what I've seen on the properly rigged Cruisairs that I'm familliar with.
John
John
On the ones that I have seen, the aileron is up a little at both ends.
Bellanca was the first one that I'm aware of to do this, but since, there have been a few that have followed suite as well.... the last one that I can think of right now was Maule, when they used
"reflex flaps", where the flap actually retracted past neutral to a little upturn.... gained a whole bunch of speed, from what I gather from the people that had them.
Bellanca was the first one that I'm aware of to do this, but since, there have been a few that have followed suite as well.... the last one that I can think of right now was Maule, when they used
"reflex flaps", where the flap actually retracted past neutral to a little upturn.... gained a whole bunch of speed, from what I gather from the people that had them.
Merritt Marquiss
New member
My hand book gives a travel on ailerons of "25 Up - 19 Down" with the statement about the 1/2 inch at the inboard rib following. My book makes no mention of any control surface that has a 22 up and down setting, the closest being the elevator in gear up configuration with a 21 up 22 down...is your handbook different???
NC74392
New member
Despite the original handbook, 22 up and 19 down actually works better drag-wise. That way the outboard wing in a turn has less less drag (less deflection= less drag) than the inboard wing. It takes less rudder to coordinate the turn also adding up to less drag. 8)
Just finished rebuilding my right aileron. It had some lousy repairs over the years and I managed to knock a hole in the inboard bottom plywood sheeting. Luckily I had some 1/16" Mahogany Plywood left over from the interior foot panels.
My AI says I should epoxy the trailing edge back on with Aeropoxy instead of trying to re rivet through the wood. I'm with him on this because I found several split ribs on the TE upon removal of the aluminum TE. One thing though, the Aircraft Spruce TE material is awful soft. Anyone know where I could fins some that was a little more original :?:
Just finished rebuilding my right aileron. It had some lousy repairs over the years and I managed to knock a hole in the inboard bottom plywood sheeting. Luckily I had some 1/16" Mahogany Plywood left over from the interior foot panels.
My AI says I should epoxy the trailing edge back on with Aeropoxy instead of trying to re rivet through the wood. I'm with him on this because I found several split ribs on the TE upon removal of the aluminum TE. One thing though, the Aircraft Spruce TE material is awful soft. Anyone know where I could fins some that was a little more original :?:
Well.... first of all... the manufacturer sets the rigging instructions, and we really don't have much choice other than to follow them. That is, if we want to be legal ( I am an A&P/IA.... 25years). So, if the aircraft was to come from my shop, it would be rigged correct... what your IA does, is up to him, I guess.
Second.... AeroPoxy is NOT an approved glue. There aren't any epoxies that could pass the tests to become certified. They lose their strength when they are heated, so they wouldn't pass the tests.... bottom line. I have argued this point with a few people, and one of them wound up having to get an experimental airworthiness certificate, to be able to fly his tigermoth...... I don't see what everyone wants to use the epoxies for anyway....they aren't any easier to work with than Resorcinol glue, and they are no where near as stable when cured... so nobody has been able to give me a good reason to want to use them......
Ok.... off my soap box. :shock:
Second.... AeroPoxy is NOT an approved glue. There aren't any epoxies that could pass the tests to become certified. They lose their strength when they are heated, so they wouldn't pass the tests.... bottom line. I have argued this point with a few people, and one of them wound up having to get an experimental airworthiness certificate, to be able to fly his tigermoth...... I don't see what everyone wants to use the epoxies for anyway....they aren't any easier to work with than Resorcinol glue, and they are no where near as stable when cured... so nobody has been able to give me a good reason to want to use them......
Ok.... off my soap box. :shock:
Merritt Marquiss
New member
Cruisair,
My handbook is an original from the 40's also, must be way different from yours though, because my page 15 says what I posted above, as does the handbook that I got from the club. My handbook for a cruisair junior also says the same thing 25 up, 19 down.....I wonder what the deal is?
My handbook is an original from the 40's also, must be way different from yours though, because my page 15 says what I posted above, as does the handbook that I got from the club. My handbook for a cruisair junior also says the same thing 25 up, 19 down.....I wonder what the deal is?
Merritt Marquiss
New member
this fall when I do the annual, I'll try it per "my" book, fly it and see what happens, then I'll try your numbers and see what I get....whichever seems to work better, and yield the most speed will be my winner....if I get time to do it before then, I'll sure let you know how things work out. I think my dad and I are going to be doing a fly-in here on the ranch in July, if you think you might like to stop in, let me know...I'll see about adding you to the list. I got to spend about 2 hours in a callair yesterday, wow, what a nice little airplane, a lot like a cruisair with the gear strapped down and super cub performance. fun fun fun
Merritt
Merritt
NC74392
New member
Decided to use Resorcinol to glue the TE back onto my ailerons. The AeroPoxy seems a little thin in the first place, and second, as John pointed out, it's not certifiable!
I actually LIKE Resorcinol except on the interior wood pieces that show. I'll just have to try to be careful when gluing and nailing these pieces back together.
Still no luck finding aileron TE material that's a little more original...
I actually LIKE Resorcinol except on the interior wood pieces that show. I'll just have to try to be careful when gluing and nailing these pieces back together.
Still no luck finding aileron TE material that's a little more original...
When I do glue seams, I usually use a strip of the blue fineline masking tape along the edge of the seam, and then as soon as I can, I pull the tape and that leaves a nice straight edge line of the dark glue...... I make sure and leave a little to show squish out, and it actually looks pretty nice.....
JH
JH