Cabin Heater Performance
- Thread starter dtreid
- Start date
Dan Cullman
New member
Yes, a pretty anemic heating system. Some have used the heat from the carburetor heat side. You don't need carb heat when it gets very far below freezing.
Just think of the iron men in wooden ships flying open cockpit in the arctic at -40. That's the way it was.
Dan
Just think of the iron men in wooden ships flying open cockpit in the arctic at -40. That's the way it was.
Dan
David, I have seen a couple of Cruisairs with a short pipe on the inside of the firewall at the heater outlet that directed the heat over toward the pilots feet. If you fly alone, why heat the empty copilots seat? I have seen the left heat muff (carb heat side) with a valve that shunted the heat to the rear seats. I have seen that often enough, that I think it was probably a factory option, rather than an owner mod. Some of the heat muffs have an asbestos wrapping on the outside that should allow more heat out the back (to the cabin), and less to escape into the engine compartment. Outside drafts are your worst enemy. Good luck. ______Grant.
Dan Cullman
New member
Alberta is that way this time of year.
Maybe try a snowmobile suit.......
Dan
Maybe try a snowmobile suit.......
Dan
blimpy
New member
even at 40 F it is COLD in my cruisair.
Left side muff provides heat to carb or Rear Seat feet.
There is quite a bit that can be done to stop the ingress of cold air at the wing roots
( this is where most of the drafts come from).
Seal the wing root speed fairings ( if you have them) with the 3M goop. LL knows the product number.
Then it is a matter of improving the insulation and perhaps adding some taped in air barriers ( tyvek ?)
There is an "air dam" at the front and rear of the front seat made of something similar to wing skin ( 3/32 ply) with
big gaps. All of these can be taped closed. I had some "duct tape" with moustaches on it.. which dressed up the plane considerably :lol:
There are big gaps at the covers over the rudder cables on the sides of the cabins.. perfect for directing dropped keys into the wing roots. I taped these at the top.. but around the cables good luck.
The fiberglass used at the factory is now a health hazard IMHO.. it jams in control pulleys, it get airborne and you breathe it, and worst, it absorbs 5606 the spills or leaks from the master cylinders. and is therefore a big fire hazard.
IMHO... all that crap needs to be abated and something put in it's place.
I just pulled all mine after mice got in it.
I cannot tell one bit of improvement from having the rear cabin heat on.
The tube is 4 feet long anyway, and likely soaked with the same 5606 that is collecting under your rudder pedals.
Since that hot air comes through the firewall right under the pilots feet, why not direct that hot air into the front of the cockpit also ?
Fiberglass is heavy, holds moisture, and is about as nice to breathe as asbestos.. and probably just about as good for you.
It should at least be encapsulated, if there isn't an acceptable fire proof or retardant foam to replace it safely and legally.
Metal plate on the belly can be sealed with silicone strip used for cowls, or maybe that 3m goop.
A small thermo nuclear device couldn't keep up with the heat loss due to the existing air leaks. :lol:
Motorcyclists wear heated vests, socks, and gloves.. all 12v items... and probably a good bet
to keep the core temp up and the digits a better shade of blue.
Left side muff provides heat to carb or Rear Seat feet.
There is quite a bit that can be done to stop the ingress of cold air at the wing roots
( this is where most of the drafts come from).
Seal the wing root speed fairings ( if you have them) with the 3M goop. LL knows the product number.
Then it is a matter of improving the insulation and perhaps adding some taped in air barriers ( tyvek ?)
There is an "air dam" at the front and rear of the front seat made of something similar to wing skin ( 3/32 ply) with
big gaps. All of these can be taped closed. I had some "duct tape" with moustaches on it.. which dressed up the plane considerably :lol:
There are big gaps at the covers over the rudder cables on the sides of the cabins.. perfect for directing dropped keys into the wing roots. I taped these at the top.. but around the cables good luck.
The fiberglass used at the factory is now a health hazard IMHO.. it jams in control pulleys, it get airborne and you breathe it, and worst, it absorbs 5606 the spills or leaks from the master cylinders. and is therefore a big fire hazard.
IMHO... all that crap needs to be abated and something put in it's place.
I just pulled all mine after mice got in it.
I cannot tell one bit of improvement from having the rear cabin heat on.
The tube is 4 feet long anyway, and likely soaked with the same 5606 that is collecting under your rudder pedals.
Since that hot air comes through the firewall right under the pilots feet, why not direct that hot air into the front of the cockpit also ?
Fiberglass is heavy, holds moisture, and is about as nice to breathe as asbestos.. and probably just about as good for you.
It should at least be encapsulated, if there isn't an acceptable fire proof or retardant foam to replace it safely and legally.
Metal plate on the belly can be sealed with silicone strip used for cowls, or maybe that 3m goop.
A small thermo nuclear device couldn't keep up with the heat loss due to the existing air leaks. :lol:
Motorcyclists wear heated vests, socks, and gloves.. all 12v items... and probably a good bet
to keep the core temp up and the digits a better shade of blue.