Window pics are in a camera that I cant get back for a week or more.
But... I do remember that the bottom of the window is radiused on each side ( eg, rounded corners.)
So, the square ends of the metal go up and butt up against the top metal strips that the handles attach to,
and the rounded edges slide in the wooden slots routed into the frames.
If mine had been that easily acessable.. I would sand those routed grooves very smooth, apply a couple of light
coats of good varnish. Lightly sand that again if needed, and then consider lubricating with a light silicone grease.
I would NOT want any kind of grease or oil to get into the wood.
One of the weird things about this design is the stamped metal window "frames" supply the pressure to hold the window in place. So, how you install that.. and how tight affects the operation of the window - with FELT being a major player.
It is tempting to consider putting silicone oil or light machine oil on the felt.. but I resisted.
It requires two hands to shut my window.. and it cannot be done from any position except sitting in the pilots seat.
But, it does operate satisfactorily, doesn't leak when shot with a hose, and hasn't developed those big scratches over it's whole length - like the old one.
Hope you have the old window for a template.
The "runners" sandwich the plexiglass quite tightly. Mine were originally flush riveted - which naturally is where
the plexiglass cracked. Mine are a FRICTION FIT if I remember right. Perhaps I used a very small amount of ACE
hardware brand Clear High Tech Sealant.
At any rate, they aren't going to slip.
