Cruisemaster Service Manual

R

Rodney

New member
I'm having my first annual this month and my A&P asked if I had a service/maintenance manual. I looked at Esso Aircraft, but nothing seemed to exactly match up, and I was told that their Bellanca stuff is only a few photo copied pages. Any inputs as to exactly what he needs, and whether or not I can get a copy somewhere? Thanks!
 
Rodney,

A service manual does not exist, except for whats in the operators manual of the aircraft. Russell Williams site is a good source for information, and has a copy of the operators manual online. http://www.russellw.com/planes/cruisemaster/resources.htm

Dan
N6RJ
 
Get the -3/260 service manual from the club. Lots in common with -2 and worth the price. Dash 2 was before the FAA and Bellanca didn't give a dam about service or parts unless it was at their shop! You will find most you need except for the landing gear. when in doubt call Carroll at AAC, he has been a great help. Lynn :twisted:
 
Thanks! Hopefully the manuals you guys mentioned will be sufficient to complete the annual without trouble. I'm scheduled for 29 May, I'll let you all know if anything of note results.
 
OK, where do I find the 260 manual from the club? I did some digging but failed to find a source. I know, it is probably right in front of me. Thanks.
 
OK, talked to my A&P and he said that he only needed it to know if there were jack points or not, he has not worked on a Bellanca in 30 years or so and doesn't recall.

What manual do I need to determine rig measurements? My plane flies a little out of trim and there is no rudder adjustment. I figure I'll check the rig first, then consider a bendable tab on the rudder.
 
Rodney, My way may be a little unconvention but being a contractor it worked for me. I use a green 2x4 and cut it long enough to extend from the front spar to the rear spar and lay it flat and but it up against the wing skin but not on it. I install the jack at about 1" aft of the front spar. That puts almost all the weight on the front spar location and enough weight to apply pressure on the rear spar to hold the 2x4 in place. The green ( or wet lumber) 2x4 allows the jack cap and the wing attach fittings to embed themselves into the wood and act as a holding device and reduce the risk of sliding anywhere. Don't know how others do it but it has worked for 10 years for me. Brian
 
Rodney,

About the rudder adjustment, on my 14-19 there is a fixed rudder return spring attachment for the left pedal welded to the tubing aft of the firewall. On the right side, there is an adjustable screw type fitting that connects to the return spring and protrudes through the firewall. This has a stop nut on the front of the firewall which is used to adjust the right return spring tension. By increasing the spring tension, the rudder can be coaxed to remain more to the right when the pedals are released in flight. Decreasing the spring tension allows the left pedal spring to pull the rudder more to the left.

These are ground adjustments only and cannot be done in flight.

Also be aware that there is no rudder pedal interconnect. The left pedal and the right pedal mechanisms are not interconnected in any way except for the cables running back to the rudder control horn. In the event that either the left or right return spring were to break, the rudder would be instantly pulled in the other direction by the remaining return spring.

This would be easily handled by your foot pressure on the rudder pedal with the broken spring, but would probably lead to a wild ride caused by the initial yaw.

Has anyone had this occur?

Dave York
 
Others here have mentioned the spring adjustment, my plane does not seem to have it, or any sign of it, unless it is under the floorboard. Perhaps It was removed at some point in the past and I need to re-install the system. I'm going to give it a much closer look this weekend.

Thanks also for the jack info, when I told the mechanic I didn't think there were jack points he said that he would bring a 2x4, now I know what he was referring to. I'm going to keep note of that for my own use in the future.
 
To hold the airplane off the ground for a retract test, I built a set of tripod stands with an adjustable center post that grabs the centersection just inboard of the wing attach fitting. I use a scissors jack under the axle to lift it onto the stands. Works great and steady as a rock. I have a sketch of this stand that I can send to anyone interested.
 
Bellanca Brian talked about using a 2x4 under the wing to lift his Cruisemaster.
My 14-19 (190) has one hole on each side. The holes are inside the wing mounts and behind the front bolts. The whole diameter looks a little bigger than 3/8th of an inch. In that whole fits an adapter jack point.
I have an attached file to show the dimensions.
 
The file didn’t post. I need to find my mistake, and fix it. In the mean time if you are interested email me and will send a copy of the bit map file.
Thanks for the help Jonathan.
 
You can post pictures. Just hit PostReply, and below the typing window you'll see an Upload attachment tab next to the active Options tab. Click Upload attachment, click Browse to find the picture, click Add the file, and enter a title or your comments about it in the File comment field.
 
I've used the 2x4 method with some scrap wood as described above for years, but it is a bit precarious since the bottom of the wing is pivoting as it goes up, unless you also jack the tail at the same time.

Last winter when the wings were off my 14-19-2 the folks at Alexandria Aircraft welded on some jack point bullets onto the wing attach point front spar lower tubes. They said all the later Vikings had them. A much more stable solution.
 
I knew the Bellanca people would have different ways to provide jack points. But until now I would have thought that something better than 2x4’s under the wing would be in place.

I like what I’ve got. When I take the “jack point bullets” out, of the holes mentioned in the posting above, the wing root fairing fit. The only thing I would like to have seen is a second hole above the existing hole or a tube welded inside to make the “jack point bullets” more secure.
 
I like the jack point at the front spar idea. It makes alot of sense. I have never been comfortable with jacking on the wing with a 2X4 laid accross the spars.
 
I think my previous explaination of the 2x4 jack idea has been poorly explained or misread. Some think I am placing the 2x4 on the wing. It is not. It extends from the front to the rear spar but is only on the wing attachment fittings and not on any wood. It fits between the fuselage and the wing skin. That is how the soft (green, wet) wood indents at the jack cap and the wing attach fitting. I also jack it with the tail high. I have no holes and dont like the idea of drilling them. Anyone have pics of such holes for jack points. Thanks Brian
 
I like the jack points better too. The holes are drilled into a large tube. The tube looks like it may be part of the wing mounting brackets. If some one has seen the wings and, or, the hide off the 14-19 you could tell me more about the tubes with the holes for the jack points.

The 2x4s sound a little shaky to me. I also wonder about the abuse to the finish on the under side of the wing, where the 2x4 meets the wing. Maybe some felt or neoprene between the wing and the 2x4 would help.
 
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