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Decal/fabric repair question
- Thread starter mcrit
- Start date
mike newall
New member
If you mean the registration letters, it is not a problem. If it is an older aeroplane and is covered with butyrate dope, you can simply roller on a couple of new coats of top coat colour once you have removed the letters - see other threads about rejuvenating old dope. I use a small detail roller from Home Despot - the furry one for latex paint is fine. The factory didn't use silver dope years ago - presumeably to save weight as Ceconite was the wonder covering of the future !
Once the colour is on, get some new numbers cut at your local sign shop and stick them back on.
Once the colour is on, get some new numbers cut at your local sign shop and stick them back on.
Mike-
I beg to differ, silver dope has always been required when using the Randolph dope system with Ceconite, both Champion and late Bellanca Champion used Randoplh dope and silver dope has been used on every pre-American Champion (Superflight covering system) aircraft I've inspected.
I've never used, or heard of anyone using, a roller with dope so I can't comment on that.
Tom-
I beg to differ, silver dope has always been required when using the Randolph dope system with Ceconite, both Champion and late Bellanca Champion used Randoplh dope and silver dope has been used on every pre-American Champion (Superflight covering system) aircraft I've inspected.
I've never used, or heard of anyone using, a roller with dope so I can't comment on that.
Tom-
mike newall
New member
1979 7GCBC, original fabric, no silver anywhere.
Rollers are used now for all first coats of dope, much better than brushing - use the small furry ones from Home Despot - they work a treat. Just redone a Tiger Moth tailplane - used Randolph all the way, spot on.
If you have 2 pack topcoat.................................
'Son, you're on your own', to quote Blazing Saddles !
You can roll 2 pack on, you will need to key the surface first, I have done it with a Cessna 172 and a fabric covered Jodel. You need a reasonable clean area, warm temperature, not too humid. Don't skimp with the paint, a good coat is needed, roll it on, then leave it alone !! Don't touch it and it will blend in quite well - not as good as butyrate though.
Rollers are used now for all first coats of dope, much better than brushing - use the small furry ones from Home Despot - they work a treat. Just redone a Tiger Moth tailplane - used Randolph all the way, spot on.
If you have 2 pack topcoat.................................
'Son, you're on your own', to quote Blazing Saddles !
You can roll 2 pack on, you will need to key the surface first, I have done it with a Cessna 172 and a fabric covered Jodel. You need a reasonable clean area, warm temperature, not too humid. Don't skimp with the paint, a good coat is needed, roll it on, then leave it alone !! Don't touch it and it will blend in quite well - not as good as butyrate though.
Yikes! Without the silver the integrity and life of the fabric are compromised due to UV breakdown. With urethanes there is sometimes silver mixed into a urethane base primer coat that may appear somewhat green or grey. A flex additive was added to increase the plasticity of the paint to prevent cracking on fabric. I always found urethane covered aircraft to be somewhat 'chubby' on the scales compared to say Stits or dope. Been a while though since I've done any. So far as saving on weight, a good deal of the weight of a can of butyrate is the solvents. They flash off as the paint dries.
I'm curious to know how well the fabric punches on the upper surfaces.
I'm curious to know how well the fabric punches on the upper surfaces.