Franklin Push Rod Tube Seal Replacement

blimpy

blimpy

New member
I've been told ( always a indicator of absolute truth ! ) that:

The push rod tube seals can be replaced with the cylinders still installed.

"remove the rockers and push rods, and then the tubes can be extracted through the
holes in the cylinder heads".

Nice if true.

What's the rest of the story ??
The description I got of extracting the tubes was pretty sketchy.
I'm gonna look in the Overhaul Manual for guidance, but I'm sure some of you have been there
and done that.


If I can replace all 24 of these seals, my oil leaks will be next to nothing, reducing my oil consumption
to blow-by which is quite moderate, and a little weeping .

Tell me I don't believe in the tooth fairy. :roll: Please.
 
Larry,
This can be done, exactly as stated........
Keep all the removed parts in their respective position.
With your fingers, you can pull the pushrod housing out of the case, through the boss in the cylinder head. You only need to pull it about 2 inches...far enough to remove the old packings and install new ones. Carefully reseat the housing back into original position. Use a little grease if necessary. Reinstall the pushrods and rocker assembly IN THEIR ORIGINAL POSITION.
DO NOT USE PLIERS OR CHANNELLOCKS to remove the pushrod housing or you will DESTROY it.
Most NOS packings are too old and hard to use. Use "Real" packings or double Viton "O" rings
Dan
 
I have made a very involved, highly technical tool to reinstall push rod tubes. The round end of a broom stick is perfect, and won't deform the tube!
 
I second everything said here, especially the use of REAL seals...
it's an easy-peasy afternoon project well worth the effort.
get them for the rocker covers too.. after that my 150 was dry as a bone.

http://www.realgaskets.com/files/horizontal.htm#franklin
 
Thanks Guys !

Larry, I love the rounded broom stick tool. Right up my street !
I used the end of a broken metal golf club handle to extract a broken push rod
from my 36 hp VW engine when I was 17 or 18.

( we'll not discuss why I was revving the thing so high I was floating the valves,
and killed push rod ).

Yup, Real Gaskets were on my list.
I think I have them already on the rocker box covers. They are red, look like silicone and don't leak.
( see YouTube N74360 Franklin # 9 or #10 )

I'll have to study the book, to understand how the end of the pushrod tube at the cylinderhead end seals.
Can't visualize that.

No Tools ! I get it !
Thanks for the warning.

And naturally all this work will be performed by or under the supervision of the appropriate
licensed personel, just like everything done on my airplane. :D

larry
 
blimpy said:
No Tools ! I get it !
Thanks for the warning.

larry
Click to expand...

I remember the Stinson club had drawings for tools you could make to both remove and install them, if you're inclined to do that. I found they were quite easy to remove once you took the rod out and stuff.. All I did was wrap a shop towel around them to help get a better grip and pulled it.. helps to wear a leather glove to avoid scraped knuckles in case it lets go suddenly.
I also recall that, when reinstalling the REAL seals, you had to be very careful not to nick them on the sharp edge of the case, and that they didn't get twisted.. If I think I used some O-Ring lube on them to help get them in.
 
Dan Cullman said:
FYI,
There are two sets of "Real" pushrod housing packings available on Barnstormers for $50.
Dan
Click to expand...

Links? I couldn't find them.

here's a link to some on eBay, listed by REAL:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRANKLIN-SILICONE-PUSHROD-TUBE-SEAL-FAA-PMA-RG-17864-FITS-SEE-BELOW-/271291171584?pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item3f2a36c300&vxp=mtr
 
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