No Bounce Gear

mark7961

New member
I just bought a 66 GCAA with the no bounce gear and have a few questions.

1. I noticed a zerk fitting on the front of the struts. Is that actually a grease fitting?

2. The struts seem to be fully compressed. Are they supposed to show some inner strut like the oleos on other airplanes?

I have a service manual but it only refers to the spring steel gear.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Mark7961
 
Hi Mark, yes the grease zerk is for greasing the oleo bushing, just 2/3 pumps per 100 hrs is about all that is needed don't over grease it. as to the amount of oleo extending beyound the case frame depends (they are not like say Piper oleos) but should be about 1" some time there has been a spacer installed under the lower taxi spring to extend them. It would be a good idea to check them to see if there is hyd. fluid in them and that the springs are ok.
Heres a site with excellent information on the Aeronca oleos but not a lot on the no bounce.
http://www.hangar9aeroworks.com/AeroncaTechInfo/AeroncaTechInfo.html
They are fairy simple and easy to work on, I have a set that I overhauled and just waiting for warmer weather to install, I inserted the spacer in mine to hold the nose up some.
 
Thanks for the info and link Mnflyer. I went thru the hanger9 strut stuff and like you said there's not much about the no-bounce gear but it gave me a good idea of whats in there. I found out the most from the TC data sheet. It looks like mine is supposed to have the high energy taxi springs. I couldn't find any pictures though, so how do I tell the high energy ones from the standard?

I want to check the fluid. The assy. drawing says 8.5 ounces of 5606. Do I fill it up or do I need to drain the fluid and add the measured 8.5?

I love these gear though, I haven't had a bad landing yet (Knock wood). I want to make sure they will last a while and aren't getting damaged by the weak springs.

Thanks,
Mark7961
 
Hi Mark, I would drain the old fluid out and add new, its easy to just screw out the drain / filler plug at the bottom of the oleo. When I rebuilt mine and added the 1 inch spacers I couldn't get the full 8.5 oz back in. I'm thinking that it will be a good thing to install them on my 7DC Champ, its just tooooo cold here in MN to work in my unheated hangar. Heres a little more information.
http://www.joea.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1584&highlight=bounce+landing+gear
The taxi spring in the picture is the Champ P/N not the high energy spring.
Hope this helps
 
Dear Mark:

Our Parts and Service Manuals include an addendum for the early Citabria struts. You will find them on page 3 of the Publication Catalog that will be mailed to you next week. If your needs are more urgent, give me a call.

Regards,
 
OK, let me see if I undersand this correctly.

The oleo spring is compressed between the packing gland at the top of the cylinder and the retainer fixed at the end of the piston rod. So it is the oleo spring that is the actual suspension and the oleo dampens the spring action.

If the Taxi spring is only limiting the travel of the piston when on the ground to eliminate the rocking motion of the oleos, then it looks like the oleo spring is what is actually allowing mine to bottom out but the taxi spring should also be giving me some cushion at the bottom, right?

What are the bellville washers that are supposed to make up the high energy springs?

I'll order the addendum when I get the package from the club.

Today was sunny and about 75 degrees here in Florida. It's supposed to get down in the 40s tonight, I might have to break out a jacket ... sorry MN.

Mark7961
 
OK OK Mark, so I've busted out the jacket just setting at my computer in the house its a rather cool -10*F right now and going lower :cry: :twisted: :evil:
Sounds to me like you have it down as far as how the oleo works, the belleville washers are a type of spring, a cupped disc/washer that is stacked to form a spring.
Hope this helps and I would be in heaven with 40 degree temps :D
 
Mark, here's a photo of the high energy taxi spring for the no-bounce gear.
I have a '65 7GCAA with same.
highenergytaxi.jpg

Pete
 
I joined this forum looking for advice on Citabria oleos, but come to find out, I now know more about them than most members, from what I saw in posts going back quite a few years. I was unable to get to this forum before I found out the answers for myself. That's good, because there's a lot of misinformation presented in the old forum notes, which I'd like to address.

I have a 1966 Citabria 7ECA with oleos. We (my A&P and I working together) just finished an annual that took four months, its first with me as owner. There were lots of issues. One of my biggest concerns was the landing gear. The aircraft used to sit as though someone had stepped on it. The camber of the wheels was negative, which means they're closer together at the top. The oleos had half an inch of travel. This was all wrong.

In the process of attempting to find out what was supposed to be inside the oleos I contacted several "experts," and got more misinformation. The only parts book I have is the reprint by Univair, which tells the WHOLE STORY, but omits the photo of the 2-1655 Belleville-washer taxi spring. What I'm about to write is based on very recent experience with getting my airplane set up correctly.

When my airplane is resting on the ground the piston sits on the taxi springs. That is why they are called taxi springs. The upper springs act to extend the oleos in the air, and partly cushion the landing as the oil does its work. My oleos used to have the short taxi springs, 2-953, which were 3.2" long and just under 7/16" wire diameter. These provided only half an inch of travel, and negative camber. The CORRECT springs, as the parts book specifies for my bird with its O-235 engine, which is 75 pounds heavier than the O-200, are the "high-energy taxi springs." These are the Belleville washers, 2-1655, which are more than an inch longer than the 2-953s.

One member posted a photo showing aluminum spacers that made up the length difference between the two types of taxi springs. Apparently the older, original Belleville washers (2-1655) had a tendency to work harden and break.
Replacement 2-1655 springs were not available for some time until Univair began making them again, for which I thank them profusely. But you could get the shorter (incorrect) taxi springs, and add a spacer to get the correct camber (and prop clearance) for the heavier engine.

With the Bellevilles in my airplane the camber is finally correct, and the oleo travel (on the ground) is slightly over an inch. The Bellevilles have a lower spring rate, so the ride on bumpy ground is a bit softer.

Another thing: You cannot simply open the little drain plug and change the oil. You won't get all the old stuff out. It gets trapped on top of the piston and you need to work the piston to get it all out. The POH tells how to properly fill it with new oil. It specifies a measurement from the end of the oleo to the top of the oil. Remove the entire oleo to do the job correctly and more easily. The big cap on the bottom of the oleo (as mounted) comes off easily by hand -- or it should. Take it off, drain the oil, find out what springs you have, and then rest the oleo on a rag and pump the thing to get all the old oil out of it. If you let it drain overnight it will NOT come out, or so I found. The required amount is 8.5 ounces, and you will have to pump the thing to get it all in. We could not do so by "tapping" it, as the book suggested.

Before you put the cap back on, DEBURR the end of the oleo to avoid damaging the new O-ring, which goes inside the cap.

If you have an after-market spacer, be sure to reduce the 8.5 ounces of oil by the volume of the spacer. These two-spring oleos requre both air and oil inside. However, if you have a spacer, I suggest you leave it out and put in the correct 2-1655 spring assembly (43 Belleville washers held together by an internal spring). Note that the Bellevilles are arranged in very specific order. Don't mess with that.

Next, the oleos do NOT make the wheels toe-in as they flex downward, as someone noted. This is an illusion. The plane of rotation of the axle and oleo assembly is perpendicular to the fuselage, so the toe-in does not change. Only the CAMBER changes. Old gear gets incredibly loose, which we found, but by clever work, spacers in the right place, and some luck you can tighten the gear so the toe-in remains slightly positive, and ground handling will improve.

Now, I don't claim to have all the answers, and still have some questions about the oleos in Citabrias, but the above is all 100 percent correct as I found it in my aircraft.

.........Ray
 
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