I got my info out of the POH which is also the only maintenance maual for this plane-actually it is the entire factory body of literature for this plane. I'm not sure whether you need to even know the leveling points to rig the plane (unless you are rigging wing incidence) I have not touched my ailerons since they were rigged fine, but the angles shown are from level to the wing-not to a leveled aircraft. I have rigged my rudder and tailwheel and it is a pretty logical procedure, but will take a bit of time and will require some trial and error. Be sure to be familiar with safety wiring of turnbuckles and the rules governing the use of turnbuckles. For instance, only three threads should be showing when you are done-never more-some have a "check hole" into which to insert a piece of wire to be sure they are tight enough. Also, turnbuckles built before 1978 have a FAA special information information bulletin regarding NAS-649 turnbuckle barrels. the tendancy of the barrels is to crack. If you think the barrels are original , you may want to change them for newer crack resistant ones. I believe the clip on type are not original to the aircraft, so you might want to stick with safety wire. The POH originally called for brass safety wire and in all the copies of the POH I have seen, the book has been changed to stainless steel. Would probably stick with stainless-I've never even seen brass for sale, though I confess to not having looked hard. Here is how I rigged it. First I cut the safety wire and loosened the turnbuckles (now is the time to replace or shine them-also make sure they have equal numbers of threads showing and note that number. Then, I blocked off the rudder pedals-I used scrap wood and wheel chocks. Then I blocked off the rudder with two pieces of wood and some big rubber bands. Next pull the aircraft forward a couple of feet to center the tailwheel. The tailwheel won't move left or right easily, so gravity should hold it in place. The turnbuckles should be rather loose. Then go into the tail of the plane (you may wish to remove the battery to give you more room and better visibility.) There is a two piece one cubic inch metal block that has two bolts through it that splices the cables to the rudder with the cables to the tailwheel. I adjusted this first to make everything loose but almost tight and equal-There are two springs and the weight of the springs will make them seem tighter than they actually are, so watch that the springs really do appear to be almost tight. Then start tightening the four turnbuckles equally until the tensions seem just right (look at other planes to get a feel for what is "right" Recall that the tightness will vary with temperature. If you set the cables a bit tight on a 90 degree day and then fly at -30 degrees a few months later, they will be very tight-use your brain on this one. When you are done, make sure you have fewer than three threads showing on the turnbuckles. If things don't work out right, start all over but this time have a different number of threads showing when you start so that things will work out right. Then when you are about done, double check that you can get full rudder travel (as shown in the POH-if not, you won't be able to do crosswind landings). Also, now would be a good time to loosen the turnbuckles a bit, replace the nylon lock nuts that hold that splice block (this part probably has a name) and then tighten back to where you were and then safety wire using instructions that you can find in any aviation text or on the internet. I hope you can follow this rambling description, and I hope someone else will review it and let me know if I've done anything wrong (so I can fix my plane) If the plane doesn't fly true after, there are a number of things that can be done. It the rudder needs to be adjusted to have the plane fly true, there may be a spring under the rudder pedal than can be adjusted (my plane has only a little tab on the trailing edge of the rudder. If the ailerons are off a bit after rigging, so that the plane is always banking to one side, the correction is to shim the flap a bit to true the bank- This is the quick fix and not the best way. The correct way is to get everthing correct-wing incidence, aileron trueness, etc, but when all else fails, shim one flap a bit (or unshim the other) Again, hope to here a lot from the more knowledgeable members of this group, so I can learn how this all should really be done.
