The pulley on the bottom right of the control yoke on the Cruisair is sticky, it will move if you grab it with your fingers but the cable mostly slides in the pulley instead of the pulley turning. Tried all the WD-40 type lubricants that I have but no change. Suppose the pulley should be removed and a new bushing and or pulley be installed, but the bolt that holds it in appears as though it will not come out far enough without going through the fabric, perhaps it got installed backwards. Hoping one of you guys knows of some miracle lubricant or something. Thanks, Richard
sticky pulley
- Thread starter guzziduck
- Start date
Richard, those pulleys are miserable to pull,even if the bolt is on the inside. I dont think you are against the fabric, but are against the boot cowl. I have noticed several Cruisairs with small (1 inch or so) riveted patches on the outside of the boot cowl so that those bolts can be removed. It might just be the easiest way. Good Luck.____Grant.
Since I am a retired Teamster, I have given the cussing method a very good test already. I unbolted the hinges (bearing blokes) at the bottom of the yoke and moved it aside and I still dented the boot cowl. That part of the plane is almost always put together before the boot cowl is put on,and people dont notice that they are making a nightmare for some later owner.I think that a patch or removable inspection plate would look better than a dent. Maybe someone else has a better trick?___Grant.
danschultz
Member
Richard,
You might try a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Dan
You might try a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Dan
flyncowboy
New member
Hi Richard,
I had the same problem on my 14-13-2, Itook a big metal soup spoon, more like a laddel from the wifes kitchen and used it to gently wedge out the boot cowl enough to get that bolt out. It bowed out the cowl very uniformly...after replacing it, I used a thick rag to cushion the cowl from the outside and put pressure on it to push it back into form...you cannot even tell anything was done. It sure is a bugger, be sure to put the bolt back in the other way so the nut is on the cowl side, still a bugger getting in that cotter key LOL.
I had the same problem on my 14-13-2, Itook a big metal soup spoon, more like a laddel from the wifes kitchen and used it to gently wedge out the boot cowl enough to get that bolt out. It bowed out the cowl very uniformly...after replacing it, I used a thick rag to cushion the cowl from the outside and put pressure on it to push it back into form...you cannot even tell anything was done. It sure is a bugger, be sure to put the bolt back in the other way so the nut is on the cowl side, still a bugger getting in that cotter key LOL.
Gary Brink
New member
Richard,
Although I couldn't find it, I'm certain there is an AD on that pulley. The AD states that it must be removed and lubricated every ?? or it muct have a grease zirk installed in it. Jerry Sather made a list of all of the ADs for the 14 13-2 and that was one of them. I did put a grease zirk in mine to take care of that requirement.
Gary
Although I couldn't find it, I'm certain there is an AD on that pulley. The AD states that it must be removed and lubricated every ?? or it muct have a grease zirk installed in it. Jerry Sather made a list of all of the ADs for the 14 13-2 and that was one of them. I did put a grease zirk in mine to take care of that requirement.
Gary
Larry Lowenkron
New member
Are you referring to:
47-32-18 BELLANCA: (Was Service Note 1 of AD-773-5.) Applies to Models 14-13, 14-13-2 Serial Numbers 1075, and Up.
Compliance required prior to October 15, 1947, and after each 25 hours of operation.
Remove the washer and cotter pin from the clevis bolt which holds on the aileron idler sprocket located at the top center of the control yoke and back off the sprocket. Lubricate the entire bearing surface of the clevis pin with oil. Reinstall sprocket and washer, and safety with new cotter pin of same type (AN 380-3-3).
(Bellanca Service Bulletin No. 9 covers the same subject, and the installation of a grease fitting to avoid removing the sprocket.)
At the last WCFI at Columbia Dan Torrey showed why we should NOT put the grease fitting into the clevis. In fact, most planes that I have seen have had the clevis removed and replaced with an AN bolt.
47-32-18 BELLANCA: (Was Service Note 1 of AD-773-5.) Applies to Models 14-13, 14-13-2 Serial Numbers 1075, and Up.
Compliance required prior to October 15, 1947, and after each 25 hours of operation.
Remove the washer and cotter pin from the clevis bolt which holds on the aileron idler sprocket located at the top center of the control yoke and back off the sprocket. Lubricate the entire bearing surface of the clevis pin with oil. Reinstall sprocket and washer, and safety with new cotter pin of same type (AN 380-3-3).
(Bellanca Service Bulletin No. 9 covers the same subject, and the installation of a grease fitting to avoid removing the sprocket.)
At the last WCFI at Columbia Dan Torrey showed why we should NOT put the grease fitting into the clevis. In fact, most planes that I have seen have had the clevis removed and replaced with an AN bolt.
Larry Lowenkron
New member
The bolt/clevis failed.
Dan Cullman
New member
Be advised that two different pulley locations are being discussed here.
Dan
Dan
blimpy
New member
Yeah.. apples and oranges.
the original post is about the CABLE pulley located on the side of the cockpit
the AD refers to the idler CHAIN Pulley between the two control wheel chain pulleys.
WD-40 is a Solvent with no long term lubricating properties.
Use that stuff as a lubricant, and the moving parts will Sieze Up shortly.
I knew a guy who used wd-40 on his aileron hinges all the time.. and they seized and busted...
the long trail of rust was no clue to him .. neither were my comments.
Use LPS 2 or 3 ( as appropriate) or my favorite TRI FLOW with Teflon.
the original post is about the CABLE pulley located on the side of the cockpit
the AD refers to the idler CHAIN Pulley between the two control wheel chain pulleys.
WD-40 is a Solvent with no long term lubricating properties.
Use that stuff as a lubricant, and the moving parts will Sieze Up shortly.
I knew a guy who used wd-40 on his aileron hinges all the time.. and they seized and busted...
the long trail of rust was no clue to him .. neither were my comments.
Use LPS 2 or 3 ( as appropriate) or my favorite TRI FLOW with Teflon.
blimpy
New member
I found my elevator pulley grooves so clogged with OLD GREASE and the junk that old grease
captures.. .that my pulleys actually caused drag( and some weird skipping) on the cable movement.
I cleaned the pulleys thoroughly with solvent, lubed the bearings, the cable grooves, inspected the cable
and lubed the cable where it passed over the pulley - all with LPS .
Mo bettah.
Loose fiberglass lumps and grease can clog the space between the bottom of the pulley and it's U frame.
Look under your seats.
Not nice.
captures.. .that my pulleys actually caused drag( and some weird skipping) on the cable movement.
I cleaned the pulleys thoroughly with solvent, lubed the bearings, the cable grooves, inspected the cable
and lubed the cable where it passed over the pulley - all with LPS .
Mo bettah.
Loose fiberglass lumps and grease can clog the space between the bottom of the pulley and it's U frame.
Look under your seats.
Not nice.