Winterization - 14-19-2
- Thread starter glennhake
- Start date
blimpy
New member
don't worry... if the ice build-up isn't restricting your cooling airflow in flight... then you don't need to.
seriously.. are you talking about in the hanger.. right :lol: ?
I dunno nada about illionois type (arctic) conditions... but in our recent sub-freezing ( not sub zero ! )
weather these last few days.. I decided to set up an oil filled electric radiator type heater so it would keep
my franklin warm. Normally air flows in the nose which pressurizes the cowl, forces cool air down through
the cylinder fins, past the exhaust manifold, and out under the aircraft.
Reversing the process I am letting heated air rise up trough the slot at the bottom of the cowl,
heat the carb, oil pan, and rise up through the cylinder fins.. exiting the holes in the snout.
Maybe in your climate you'd want to trap the heat... which I think you can do with a couple of rigid foam insulation blanks cut to fit. I guess an old sleeping bag or moving blanket thrown over the cowl would conserve heat also. Somewhere this begins to sound like a recipe from Darwins List. I used the 900 watt setting.
Other than the thermostat points.. this is an essentially ignition free set up.
Leave thermostat on 10 and it won't cycle.
seriously.. are you talking about in the hanger.. right :lol: ?
I dunno nada about illionois type (arctic) conditions... but in our recent sub-freezing ( not sub zero ! )
weather these last few days.. I decided to set up an oil filled electric radiator type heater so it would keep
my franklin warm. Normally air flows in the nose which pressurizes the cowl, forces cool air down through
the cylinder fins, past the exhaust manifold, and out under the aircraft.
Reversing the process I am letting heated air rise up trough the slot at the bottom of the cowl,
heat the carb, oil pan, and rise up through the cylinder fins.. exiting the holes in the snout.
Maybe in your climate you'd want to trap the heat... which I think you can do with a couple of rigid foam insulation blanks cut to fit. I guess an old sleeping bag or moving blanket thrown over the cowl would conserve heat also. Somewhere this begins to sound like a recipe from Darwins List. I used the 900 watt setting.
Other than the thermostat points.. this is an essentially ignition free set up.
Leave thermostat on 10 and it won't cycle.
blimpy
New member
Franklin manual says Maximum Cyl Head temp is 500 degree F.
with cylinder barrel temp maximum 300 degrees F.
If oil temp is normal and egt is where you want it... why worry ?
whats the nearest comparable continental.. a C-145 or O-300 ?
I think this kind of cross comparison maybe not so good for determining operating
parameters.. but I yield to Dan and Larry.
with cylinder barrel temp maximum 300 degrees F.
If oil temp is normal and egt is where you want it... why worry ?
whats the nearest comparable continental.. a C-145 or O-300 ?
I think this kind of cross comparison maybe not so good for determining operating
parameters.. but I yield to Dan and Larry.
lwford
New member
Glenn, I don't block a thing in the winter. I do have to use carb heat if it is around zero degrees. I normally use the heat like a Lyc. I check it as a Gump and if it is ok I leave it off. This worked only down to 20 degrees and then I found the engine would stop on landing due to carb ice --no fun. The engine is not smooth using carb heat as it is starving for air and the air it is getting is hot. I have a very old cyl temp gage and it is mounted on #4. It show the same temp range that you are getting. One other note is the Spartan gang I am involved in is talking OSH this year and not Blakesburg. If that is the case I am taking the Crate to OSH and camping with the plane. The Thunderbirds will be at OSH 1st time so that will be a big draw. Always WX permitting. I don't mess with Mother Nature!
Lynn the crate :shock:
Lynn the crate :shock: